Our Oman itinerary for nine days

Our Oman itinerary for nine days

Oman might not be the obvious tourist destination yet, but it’s definitely up and coming. Its proximity to Europe makes it the perfect winter destination for those in need of some sunlight, and the mix of desert, mountains and beaches in a relatively small area means that you can see many of the main attractions in just a week. Here’s our Oman itinerary for nine days spent in the north of the country. We could easily have stayed twice as long and seen the south as well!

Read our extensive guide to all you need to know when preparing for a camping trip in Oman

Our Oman itinerary

Day 1: A stopover in Doha, Qatar

The skyline at the corniche in Doha Qatar on a qatar airways layover tour

On the first day, or technically on the way there, we found ourselves with a lot of time on our hands at the airport in Doha, the capital of Qatar. We spent a few hours touring the city with Qatar Airways’ transit tour and got to see a few landmarks, as well as get a taste of the daytime temperatures on the Arabian Peninsula.

We arrived in Muscat in the evening, picked up our car at the airport and drove across town to the hotel we had booked for the night. We chose Mutrah Hotel in the older part of town, which incidentally is the oldest hotel in Muscat. I was a bit nervous about driving an unfamiliar car through an unfamiliar city after dark, so the location close to the main roads as well as a name that people we’d ask would know seemed reassuring. In the end, it all went really well. I won’t say that driving in Muscat at night is a walk in the park, but we lived.

The hotel was also really nice, the room was very large and very clean, and we were greeted with a mango juice by some very pleasant men at reception. After the long journey, the drive and finally backing the giant rental car into an awkward parking spot, I slept really well. In the morning we had the hotel breakfast buffet, which was pretty pricey at 4 OMR and honestly was nothing special. In retrospect we should’ve gone across the road to the SPAR supermarket instead.

Day 2: The roadtrip begins – Muscat to Sharfat al Alamein

Driving in Muscat in daylight was possibly more frightening than at night, but we made it to the Carrefour for the initial shopping trip before going on the roadtrip. We needed some gear, such as camping gas and something to sit on, having brought most we would need from home. We also needed a stash of food and water for the trip, which was exciting as we didn’t know at all what would be available. Turns out that store has pretty much anything you can imagine.

Just after noon we headed out on the expressway toward Nizwa. The road seemed very new and outside of Muscat there weren’t that many cars on the road. We drove for a few hours and made a quick stop in Nizwa. The souk was closed for the afternoon, so after a quick stroll around the area we got back in the car, away from the heat, and continued past Tanuf up on Sharfat al Alamein, just as the sun began to go down.

camping spot in sharfat al alamein oman

We camped near one of the viewpoints just below the top of the mountain, and in the morning we saw some spots that were possibly nicer, farther away from the road, but on the other hand windier.

The best camping spots in Oman, and how to find them

Day 3: A mountain hike, Jibrin fort, a look at Bahla and up on Jebel Shams

In the morning we had breakfast and packed up the tent. Some curious goats approached to look for things left behind, but I think they were disappointed. We were right at the start of a hiking trail that goes from the highest point of the road along the ridge, and we walked for about an hour past the viewpoints of the trail before turning back toward the road as the temperature started to rise.

The main attraction this day was Jibrin Castle, by many considered the best fort to visit in Oman. We had turned down a visit to the fort in Nizwa the day before as we learned that the entrance fee for foreigners was 5 OMR. In Jibrin, they only charged 500 baisa.

Jibrin castle supposedly the best fort should be part of any Oman itinerary

The fort in Jibrin is pretty big, and an audio guide in several languages is included in the entrance fee. We strolled around the different rooms and learned quite a bit about the former owners and the architecture. We were also lucky to leave just as several tour groups arrived, so I would recommend going before noon to beat the crowd.

In the early afternoon we started driving back toward the mountains, this time up on Jebel Shams. The road is only paved for part of the way, so we were really happy to have a good 4WD to go up the steep hills. We found a good camping spot very close the the canyon rim and had a couple of hours to admire the view before sunset.

camping spot between rocks on jebel shams oman

Day 4: The balcony hike and some relaxing time on Jebel Shams

We woke up early and went to the nearby village of Al Khateem to start the Balcony walk, a hiking trail that goes along the rim of the canyon. The views were spectacular, and I had to really make an effort to look where I was going, because the trail is very narrow and I didn’t want to fall into the canyon.

The hiking trail is well marked on the balcony walk jebel shams oman

When we got back it was around noon, and as we had decided to spend another night on the mountain, we drove down to Sama Heights Resort to have lunch. We had a look around the hotel, which looked really nice, with several different types of accommodation, ranging from tents to pretty sweet bungalows. We had egg burgers, which we really enjoyed, and they sold us some water bottles because as always on this trip, we were running out of water.

In the afternoon, we found a place to camp and set up our tent, then spent the rest of the day just relaxing.

More about Jebel Shams and the Balcony walk

Day 5: Into the desert

where the road ends and desert starts in wahiba sands Oman

We left the mountain in the morning for the long drive toward the desert. On the way, we made another stop in Nizwa to see the souk in action. What a difference! We didn’t do any shopping, but had a mint lemonade in the shade, just watching the people and the live animals of the souk.

We continued driving toward Al Wasil, our goal for the day, watching the landscape change as we got closer to the desert. We even saw a dead camel by the road! We had booked a night with Desert Retreat Camp in Wahiba Sands, and met up with our guide at a gas station in Al Wasil to be escorted through the desert out to the camp. Driving on the sand was so much fun.

A tent at the desert retreat camp in wahiba sands oman

In the evening, we hung out with the camels, climbed the dunes around the camp, and had an excellent dinner. Staying in the camp also offered us a rare chance to shower, but we were immediately hit by a sandstorm so I’m not sure it really helped much.

All about our stay in Wahiba Sands

Day 6: Swimming in Wadi Bani Khalid and driving to the coast

After a morning walk in the desert to take even more pictures of camel babies, we packed up and drove off toward the paved roads. We went to Wadi Bani Khalid, a wadi where you can swim in a really beautiful setting. We spent most of the day there, swimming and relaxing in the shade. Coming down from the mountains means the temperatures will be higher.

More on how to visit Wadi Bani Khalid

Swimming at wadi bani khalid in Oman

In the afternoon, we drove toward the coast and set up camp in Qalhat, a town near Sur that was apparently a bit more happening in the 2nd century than it is now.

Day 7: A morning in Sur and finally some beach time

In the morning, we drove back to Sur. We strolled down the corniche and saw the lighthouse, then went to visit the fort. This fort is a lot smaller than the one in Jibrin, but it barely had any other visitors, and we got a guided tour of a few rooms, then got to stroll around on our own. I’d recommend it if you’re in Sur anyway, but it’s not worth going there to see it.

We’d seen a mall on the way into town, so we went there for some air conditioning and to shop for more food. It feels weird to come inside like that after a week of living outside.

camping spot near white beach between fins and tiwi oman

In the afternoon, we drove a bit up north along the coast to the beaches between Fins and Tiwi, and found a great spot to both swim and spend the night.

Day 8: Hiking Wadi Shab and drove to As Sifah beach near Muscat

We went to Wadi Shab, quite near Tiwi, which is another wadi popular with tourists and clearly signposted from the road. It costs 1 OMR to cross the first pool in a boat, and then the hiking trail starts on the other side. We walked for maybe a half hour before reaching some pools. There were lots of people swimming but it was a bit unclear whether this was allowed, and we were happy just resting in the shade for a bit before returning. The wadi is really beautiful, it looks like the mountain just opened itself up for us to go inside.

All about the visit to Wadi Shab

Hiking at wadi shab Oman

From there we drove northward for several hours to the beach town of As Sifa, very close to Muscat, where we had planned to spend the last night. It took us some time to find a beach away from other people, but we finally did and had a last swim in the sea.

Day 9: Visiting the mosque and the souk in Muscat before going home

We left the beach early in the morning and drove into Muscat to visit the Sultan Qaboos Grand Mosque which is open to visitors in the morning. It’s a beautiful building, and we spent some time looking at the elaborate decorations.

Sultan Qaboos Grand Mosque in Muscat Oman

After that, we went to the Mutrah souk for some souvenir shopping, since this was our last day in Oman. The souk was very busy with both tourists and locals, and we wandered around the maze-like alleys for hours. We bought some great shawls, and dates and other sweets to take home.

All about our one day in Muscat

Then the time had come to return the car to the airport and leave Oman. We never felt stressed or rushed, even though we did a lot in a short time, and I think that was thanks to the rental car that allowed us to stop and go as we liked without a schedule.

How to travel Oman on a budget

9 days in Oman a self-drive and camping itinerary
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Nine days in Romania: our itinerary

Nine days in Romania: our itinerary

Going to Romania had been on my bucket list for as long as I could remember. Just kidding, who goes to Romania? No one I knew. As a matter of fact, all I knew about Romania, and I’m sure I’m not alone in this, was that Dracula came from there. And that novel was mostly set in the UK anyway.

What I did learn was that flights to Bucharest were really cheap, so off I went for nine days in spring. And when I was there, I also learned that people do go to Romania! One segment in particular that goes there is older Spanish and Italian people who don’t speak foreign languages, because those who work in the tourism industry in Romania seem to speak EVERY language. Plus, with all the nice Italian food on offer, Italians must feel right at home.

Our itinerary for nine days in Romania

Where we stayed

Bucharest (1 night)
Sibiu (2 nights)
Sighisoara (2 nights)
Brasov (3 nights)
Bucharest (1 night)

Train travel in Romania

View over mountains from train window in TransylvaniaWe traveled by train between the cities, which was really convenient. The trains were of high standard, were quite punctual, and we could choose between several trains each day for our destinations. For all of these routes, except from Sibiu to Sighisoara, we booked tickets online in advance. I found the website easy to navigate, and all info is available in English. I received the tickets by emails as pdf files to be printed out.

For the local train between Sibiu and Sighisoara, we just showed up at the station and bought the tickets from a window inside. The person who was there at the time didn’t speak much English, but as we were traveling with the next train it was easy. If you are booking for a later train it would probably help to look up the time and write a note with the hours beforehand. All trains seemed searchable on the website, even those that weren’t possible to book.


Bucharest was not a charming city. We stayed in the old town, which is not a quaint and tourist-friendly place, but where all the clubs are. Still, we found enough sights to entertain us for a few days. There is some history, after all.

Bucharest, not an entirely awful place


Sibiu was a lovely small town with a great historical center, and lots of little things to see, such as the museum of pharmacy. We also strolled to ASTRA, the open-air rural history museum with real buildings from the past, located just outside of town, a perfect half-day excursion.

Cultural Sibiu, our introduction to Transylvania


I’m really not one of those people who can’t walk through a quaint little town without stopping at every corner to take a picture. Oh, wait, apparently I am. Sighisoara is hands down one of the prettiest towns I’ve seen. We spent the better part of two days just strolling around a very small area, chilling on the square and drinking coffees at every place in town that sold them.

Sighisoara, what Pinterest was made for


Moving on to Brasov meant getting used to traffic and city life again, but also to excellent dining, long walks both in nature and the city, and to finally get to see the famous Bran castle, also known as Dracula’s castle although there is in reality no connection other than that it’s scary enough.

A Dracula basecamp in Brasov

Some of my favorite guesthouses in Europe

Accommodation is cheap in Romania compared to Western Europe. On average, we paid around €30 per night for really nice double rooms with breakfast at small and homey guesthouses. The standard was really unbelievable. I would highly recommend Casa Timpuri Vechi in Sibiu and Pension am Schneiderturm in Sighisoara. But it was hard to choose, and probably hard to really go wrong, as the review scores for guesthoses in these towns on are through the roof.

Being a vegetarian in Romania

I eat cheese and eggs, and in Romania I ate a lot of that. I think I really would’ve struggled as a vegan, as far from all restaurants could offer a single meat free dish that wasn’t a plate of lettuce. The traditional Romanian dishes didn’t work for us, but luckily the Italian influence is strong and the quality of food in general was amazing. We had some really fancy pastas that didn’t seem like the last resort as Italian food often does where vegetarian food is scarce. In Brasov in particular we found some really nice and vegetarian-friendly restaurants, and we also did manage to try a more traditional dish, the mămăliga, a polenta-like baked dish with a fried egg on top. It tasted a lot nicer than it was presented.

Mamaliga, Romanian food

9 days in Romania itinerary
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Two weeks in Sri Lanka: our itinerary

Two weeks in Sri Lanka: our itinerary

This is our itinerary for two weeks in Sri Lanka. It’s pretty much what people see in Sri Lanka in two weeks, but I especially enjoyed going to a small town and staying the night instead of coming in on a tour. This is an overview of our itinerary, follow the links to the individual posts to find out more!

Where we stayed

Kandy (2 nights)
Sigiriya (1 night)
Kandy (1 night)
Ella (3 nights)
Udawalawa (1 night)
Tangalle (3 nights)
Galle (1 night)
Colombo (2 nights)


View over Kandy

We arrived at Colombo airport in the late afternoon, so to save time, we had arranged an airport pickup with our hotel in Kandy. The journey took around three hours because of heavy holiday traffic, our driver said that it normally goes faster. We spent two nights in Kandy, giving us enough time to see the main sights in town, such as the Temple of the Tooth Relic.

Kandy, the perfect start of a trip to Sri Lanka

Dambulla, Sigiriya

We left Kandy in the morning, walked to the bus station and found a bus for Dambulla, two hours away. We just stopped there for a few hours to see the Dambulla cave temples, then took another bus for half an hour to Sigiriya where we spent the night. In the morning we went to see Sigiriya Rock, then at noon took another bus back to Kandy for one more night.

Dambulla and Sigiriya on your own

Sigiriya Rock from a distance

Kandy again

This time we were just in Kandy for one afternoon, before taking the train to Ella the following day. We went back to a favorite restaurant and took a relaxing walk around town, preparing for a long six hours on the train.

The scenic but busy train ride from Kandy to Ella

Ella entrance sign


We spent three nights in Ella, which was a good time for exploring some of the area on food without any stress. We didn’t like Ella town itself very much, as tourism had completely taken over the town, but the countryside around it was lovely.

What to do on a day out in Ella

View from Little Adams Peak in Ella


We had no plan as we left our homestay in Ella, but when we got down to the road a man approached us to offer a shared taxi to Udawalawe which would drop us at the door of our next homestay. As the alternative had looked like three public buses, connecting at various major crossroads, we didn’t think twice about it. It took a couple of hours, which I’m guessing is a lot faster than the buses, giving us time to visit the Udawalawe elephant orphanage and book a safari for the following morning. We spent one night here, which is plenty, and left at noon after the safari.

Close encounter with elephants at Udawalawe National Park

Elephant on the road


We didn’t know where to go on the coast, but it was peak season and lots of accommodation was already booked up or having doubled their prices. As we wanted an easy bus ride down from Udawalawa we choose Tangalle, a small town with some tourist hotels on one side, and homestays on the other. We were very happy with this, as we ended up staying with a lovely family and eating some of the best food we had in these two weeks.

Away from it all on the beaches of Tangalle

Boats at Tangalle beach


We spent one day in Galle, the old portuguese town, which was quite different than the other towns we had been in.Galle Fort was a little bit overcrowded with tourists, but very pretty. We climbed the city wall and got a good view into the cricket stadium.

A day and a night in colonial Galle

Street in Galle


We wanted to spend a few days in Colombo at the end of the trip, and this time we splurged on a nice hotel with a pool overlooking the ocean. We walked a lot, visited some temples, and quite liked the city.

Is Colombo worth your time?

Market district of Colombo

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